A pleasant pub in a surprising spot. You may need your satnav to find it but when you do, you'll feel like you've been there before.

The Venue
This pub is extremely easy to miss. In the days before satnav and Google Maps, you would have said it's hard to find. It seems unlikely you would come across this pub unless you worked in the area or you were lost.

It's tucked away on an inconsequential side street in the business district of Liverpool very close to the recently relocated Passport Office and the Liverpool Echo. It's a smart, tidy but slightly uninspiring area, and much the same could be said for the pub.

There's an attractive slate-floored bar area, plenty of tables for diners in well thought-out nooks and corners. Stylish shelving units house large, tasteful ornaments and collections of faux-antique novels. There are five flat screen TVs at most angles for football watchers.

Everything has been well considered, nothing is out of place and it's very unthreatening – and this is perhaps a problem. There's a kind of sterile traditionalism, which can't hope to compete with similar heritage-rich pubs in the area. This doesn't seem to trouble the Cross Keys' regulars; and for passing customers it perhaps provides an element of reassurance.

Upstairs there's a covered roof terrace, complete with a screen to ensure you don't miss any of the sporting action. It also has heaters to keep the smokers warm and there's a similar heated area downstairs.

The People
Considering the location, it's not surprising that the clientele here are almost exclusively well-heeled office workers, nor is it surprising that it's very popular with them, particularly at lunchtime and early evening peaks.

It's not a huge pub but it's certainly not tiny, yet at clocking-off time this place is regularly crammed with drinkers and diners. Regulars may well be fond of, or even protective of the Cross Keys (or it may just be the pub they go to from work). To the neutral, however, it seems pleasant but unremarkable.

In bygone days this may well have been a very different place, a smoke-filled drinking den filled with red-nosed hacks from the Echo, but it's hard to imagine there being a hair out of place these days.

The Food
Another reason for local workers to flock here must be the extensive and reasonably priced menu. One could easily come here every lunchtime for a good few weeks before choosing the same meal. There are snacks, light bites, main meals and desserts, and plenty of each.

You can enjoy generously sized lamb shank (£8.95), scampi and chips, steak kebab (both £7.95), or simple choices such as burger and chips (5.20) and nachos (£4.95).

Veggie burger and chips is served, as is the fashion, with the burger open so it has to be reassembled. It's disconcertingly meaty, and the chips are far from home-made, but it's generally fine and service is prompt.

The Drink
Along with predictable mass-produced lagers (Fosters et al), the Cross Keys has a decent set of alternatives including Leffe, Bombadier and Deuchars, the latter being a popular choice in this area, presumably for its uncomplicated lightness and clean finish, that can attract casual drinkers less keen on strong bitters.

The Last Word
It's probably not the ideal pub for a lively night out, but the Cross Keys does exactly what it says on the tin; if you're looking for a pint after work or a value pub lunch, then you won't go far wrong – just don't expect the unexpected.

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