An independent and individual coffee shop that rises above the fray.

The Venue
One of Liverpool's newest coffee shops, Rococo is a location with a difference – in fact, several differences. Firstly you won't find another Rococo 500 yards down the road, and that's a good thing for those of us who still crave choice and variety.

Secondly it's slightly hidden away up a staircase, and overlooks one of the city's main shopping streets, very close to the massive new Liverpool One retail development.

It's currently occupying the hidden gem category of eatery, which is also a good thing for those seeking to escape the hurly-burly of the city centre. After climbing said staircase, you will find an interior that's lavish but welcoming.

The rococo-design element is denoted by majestically large flocked sofas and armchairs and opulent gold and black wallpaper, but this excess is relieved by stripped wood floors and exposed brickwork. The main area is not huge, but there's a similarly ornate room at the rear and apparently plans to expand upwards into the next floor.

The People
Service here is muted but perfectly acceptable - no-one's trying to be your friend here, but there's none of that staff-gossiping-while-you-wait-to-be-acknowledged nonsense either. Orders don't take too long to arrive, and mess is cleared up promptly – a plus point just because it's amazing how many establishments get this wrong.

The clientele varies according to the time of day, since another of its unique selling points is that it stays open in the evening and serves beer and wine. Typical customers in the day include shoppers, students and office workers, but the staircase excludes wheelchair users, prams and the frail or infirm.

Its location ensures this place has a good level of exclusivity and would make it ideal for a quiet drink. Quiet, however, is one area that Rococo fails on – the music is far too loud for a place where conversation should be the norm.

The Food
This is the kind of place where you order and pay at the counter, then sit down to be served. The food is decent coffee shop fare - sandwiches, panini etc, all made to order, with a range of sandwich fillings such as brie, bacon, honey roast ham and tuna, all for £2.80. Panini will set you back £3.50, but they're twice the size of the average coffee chain variety, and well filled.

There's a marinara panini, stuffed with meatballs, melted mozzarella and an intense sauce. The roasted vegetable panini is a little disappointing, as the vegetables are very thickly cut and still a tad raw.

Cakes start at £1.85 and are generously proportioned. Orange cake is light and tangy but a little dry; lemon cake is rich and moist with heavy buttercream. Overall the food is hearty and simple.

The Drink
The coffees are served in a mug, but thankfully not the boat favoured by some popular chains, and a standard americano is only £1.55, a cappuccino £1.95. As far as alcohol goes there's no draught, and bottled beers are £2.60 and wine is|£3.20 a glass.

However, on Fridays booze is 2for1 all night to coincide with their live jazz and swing evening. Without wishing to promote the happy hour mentality, this seems a very good deal for a low key establishment like this, and one that won't get out of hand.

The Last Word
Rococo is a very welcome change from the nation's identikit latte lounges, and long may it prosper, but not so much that it tries to out-franchise the opposition. Some treasures are best kept hidden.

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